Residential Commercial Insulation Insulation Saves Energy
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Residential Commercial Insulation

Insulation Saves Money

Why Re-Insulate?

Unless your home was specially constructed for energy efficiency, you can usually reduce your energy bills by adding more insulation. Many older homes have less insulation than homes built today, but adding insulation to a newer home may also pay for itself within a few years.

Adding more insulation where you already have some, such as in an attic, will save energy. You can save even greater amounts of energy if you install insulation into places in your home that have never been insulated, such as an uninsulated floor over a garage or crawlspace, or a wall that separates a room from the attic.

Examples of Where to Insulate

Examples of Where to Insulate

1. In unfinished attic spaces, insulate between and over the
floor joists to seal off living spaces below
1A attic access door

2. In finished attic rooms with or without dormer, insulate...
2A between the studs of "knee" walls;
2B between the studs and rafters of exterior walls and roof;
2C ceilings with cold spaces above;
2D extend the insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.

3. All exterior walls, including...
3A walls between living spaces and unheated garages,
shed roofs, or storage areas;
3B foundation walls above ground level;
3C foundation walls in heated basements, full wall
either interior or exterior

4. Floors above cold spaces, such as vented crawl spaces
and unheated garages. Also insulate
4A any portion of the floor ina room that is cantilevered beyond
the exterior wall below;
4B slab floors built directly on the ground;
4C as an alternative to floor insulation, foundation walls of
unvented crawl spaces;
4D extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.

5. Band joists.

6. Replacement or storm windows and caulk and seal
    around all the windows and doors.

Our energy staff will include an insulation check as a routine part of your whole-house energy assessment. We will also help identify areas of your home that are in need of air sealing. It’s important that before you insulate, you need to make sure that your home is properly air sealed.

Air FiltrationAccording to the Department of Energy, up to 40% of your home’s energy loss is due to air infiltration. When air from the outside replaces the air in your home, it is called a “Natural Air Change”.  Homes built years ago can have more than 3 Natural Air Changes an hour.  This means that conditioned air inside your home could leak out and be replaced by outside air up to 70 times a day, requiring you to heat or cool outside air that continues to infiltrate into your home.

The comfort level and performance of your home can’t be measured by the R-Value of the insulation alone.  True comfort and performance is also measured by your home’s ability to control air movement, moisture, air quality, sound and energy efficiency. That’s why we perform a “blower door” test to measure how air tight your home is before and after we air seal and insulate it. A blower door is a tool that depressurizes a house; this depressurization exaggerates the home’s air leaks, making the leaks easier to measure and locate.

You also need to ventilate your home, because you and your family generate moisture when you cook, shower, do laundry, and even when you breathe. When you think about venting to remove moisture, you should also think about where the replacement air will come from, and how it will get into your house. When natural ventilation has been sharply reduced with extra air-sealing efforts, it may be necessary to provide fresh air ventilation to avoid build-up of stale air and indoor air pollutants. Special air-to-air heat exchangers, or heat- recovery ventilators, are available for this purpose. The experts on our energy staff consider every aspect of a complete home insulation job; they will provide you with the best possible options, personalized to your home and your budget.